FASHION. MUSIC. BRUTAL HONESTY.

Monday, 17 September 2012

LFW: FELDER FELDER & PETER PILOTTO.




 Peter Pilotto Spring 2012 RTW

When I attempt to describe the brilliance of Peter Pilotto particularly fragrant, tangible words come to mind. Delicious, decadent and dramatic. Colours are passionate and bold, fabrics, technically brilliant and shapes innovative, progressive and vivaciously stylish. Pilotto pieces are unashamedly iconic, be they dress, cigarette pant or peplum fitted blouse. His prints represent the pure excellence of high-end fashion, modern yet classic, mature yet fresh and fun. I adore Pilotto as a designer, for me he represents something extremely creative but also quite classical within fashion. His designs are the concoction of powerfully, beautiful prints and feminine, wistful shapes. Spring 2012 illustrates how fresh, innovative fashion can also adopt flattering and feminine shapes. Pretty doesn't seems to describe the elegance of the shapes Pilotto has created, but it's the word that comes to mind. Pencil skirts, statement shoulders, wrap bodices and gladiator-style embellished sandals. As to be expected when discussing Peter Pilotto, the colours that make the Spring 2012 collection so striking are fresh, electric and stimulating. Envision a palette of lime green, blue, optic white, fuchsia and burnt orange. Stimulating, inspiring and exhilarating. Simply outstanding.




Felder Felder Sprint 2012 RTW

I'm a fan of Felder Felder, it's elegant, lean and prettily feminine. Shapes are sleek, tailored and minimal.  Colours, powdered perfection tinged with translucent nudes, blacks and royal blues. Textures, mirroring the following lines of the shapes, silk, quilted taffeta and sways of chiffon. Styling is chic and simplistic, a diamond-stitch quilt, silk sleeve turn-up, delicate lace trim and high Mandarin collar. For those unacquainted with the Felder twins, they are tall, long-limped blondes, who have in the past been accused of designing for themselves, i.e. billowing pant styles, impossibly long bodies, drop waists and evening-length blazer jackets. And while I don't doubt this collection was also developed on a studio dummy with super proportions, the addition of wearable separates and waist-oriented focal points, has birthed a rather comprehensive collection. The Spring 13 offerings are minimally chic, simplicity at it's purest form. Embellishment is not heavily adorned, shapes are not layered and built-up and theater and decadence is somewhat devoid. And yet the collection achieves on it's most basic of principles, the clothes are wearable and interchangeable. For me high-fashion can be one of two things, it can be dramatic, daring and decadent, a performance of creativity and art channeled into the ensembles paraded down a catwalk, alternatively it can be relevant, wearable and modern. While by no means are these two elements mutually exclusive, you will find the majority of designers can be categorised away. Felder Felder falls into the latter of the two camps. Something a fashion brand should never be afraid of.

L.

Images: Style.com

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